Being 10 hours by bus from Rabat, the city where I lived for a year, I have not yet been able to visit my friends and Moroccan family who are so dear to me. My friends in Rabat work and have families, but this didn't stop two of them from making the trek south to visit me last weekend. Abdessamad and Mbark, two of my best friends from my year in Morocco, drove to Taroudant when they finished work on Friday and they arrived a little after midnight. The main square was still quite busy with street performers, families promenading and shopping, and people crowded around food stands with different kinds of meat barbequing on smokey grills. After exchanging big hugs and looking and feeling each other over and showering each other with compliments, I asked what the plan was. Abdessamad laughed and said, "there is no plan." We went to a juice stand and got fresh fruit shakes, and we decided we'd drive to Tata, a city 4 hours away near the dessert. We talked and laughed and jammed most of the way there and arrived at 5am. After a 2 hour nap we stopped for breakfast and decided to hit the road and see where it would take us. After driving for a couple of hours through the gorgeous mountain roads, we decided to head to Ouarzazate, the Hollywood of Morocco (where The Mummy and other films were made), which was about 5 hours northeast of Tata. The best thing about a Moroccan journey is the journey itself. Plans are loosely made and spontaneous opportunities are devoured with delightful curiosity and vigor. As we made our way to Ouarzazate through the windy mountain roads, we stopped in several villages to get a coffee, shop in the local markets, or refill our spirit tanks with hot, tasty Moroccan food. We made it to Ouarzazate around 6pm, briefly toured the city, took pictures in front of the famous Ouarzazate studio, had some more coffee, and decided to hit the road to Marrakech where I would depart southwards to Taroudant and my friends north to their respective homes. The road to Marrakech is beautiful and nerve wracking as it winds through the High Atlas Mountains and the general rule when driving in Morocco is "drive where you can; pass when you can." Again we stopped in a perty little village to have a coffee and talk Moroccan culture (my friends have as much fun with my cultural ignorance as I do with what I find to be Morocco's fascinating cultural peculiarities). We made it into Marrakech a little before midnight, and my friends dropped me off at the bus station. I had to get a bus and a taxi to get home, and I arrived at 6:30am. Remember that it was Sunday morning and I hadn't slept since Thursday night (except for a couple hours Friday morning and Saturday night). But this is Morocco, and time is cyclical. I missed a couple nights' sleep, but this was not time lost; I would simply get it back later.
But my Moroccan weekend wasn't over yet. The center hosting my IPSP had scheduled a trip to a mountain village for Sunday, so at 7am - just after I had gotten home, washed my face, changed clothes, and drank more coffee - a couple men from the center arrived and we headed off. We drove for about 2 hours on paved and dirt roads to a village way up in the High Atlas Mountains. After breakfast we hiked up along an oasis created by natural springs, and came to a promontory that gave a spectacular view of the surrounding villages which dot the mountains. The water from the springs was cool and potable, which made for frequent and delightful refreshments. After walking around a rock quarry (owned by a Spanish company...new colonialism?) we headed back to get lunch. I was pretty spent at this point, but luckily Morocco also has somewhat of a siesta culture, and we all laid down and took a nap after lunch. I arrived home at 8pm Sunday night, with the only sleep since Friday morning being 3 different 2-hour periods. Luckily, though, this is Morocco, and time is cyclical ; )
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Dates not quite ripe. |
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Parched Moroccan earth. Water is scarce and so it is directed with great precision, efficiency, and timing to different fields for various seasonal crops. |
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A neighborhood in Tata. |
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A roundabout and bus stop in Tata. |
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The roads through the mountains leaving Tata took us through some of the coolest rock formations. The mountainsides had lines that wound in all directions. |
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View of...umm...don't know what exactly...but it was part of an old neighborhood. |
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The winding mountain roads and my two buds. |
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A village situated on the hillside overlooking an oasis. |
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Town Council of Ighroum. |
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A Moroccan "Half Half" coffee setup with Abdessamad posing in the background. |
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Moroccan shenanigans. We were driving about 35mph when this happened. |
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In Morocco, there is no sense of danger. But what an awesome sense of life there surely is! |
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Abdessamad doing Islamic ablutions before prayer. |
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Mbark has a need for speed, and my diplomatic remarks about the importance of safety don't do much to slow down the vehicle. My friends had told me they hit 200 kilometers per hour on the way to meet me, so they wanted to show me. Once Mbark got up to 200kmh he told me to take a picture. I got my camera out as quickly as possible since I knew we'd stay at that speed until I snapped the shot. |
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Taking some model shots in Ouarzazate. Mom and Dad, you remember this square? |
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Moroccan studios! |
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You can make out a mosque (the tower) and another building in the background. I found this kind of scenery so beautiful. |
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The setting sun between the mountains as we traversed the high pass between Ouarzazate and Marrakech. |
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Yeah there wasn't really anything we were looking at over there, but it made for a good picture. |
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Yummy meal and refreshing nap, all in the same place! |
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Part of a village situated like a fort atop a hillside in the mountains. |
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This is how this particular village directs the spring water to the various fields for agricultural needs. |
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So potable, so derricious! |
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A water reservoir that the locals use as a swimming pool when it's full. |
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I done seen a frog I knows I has! |
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There the rascal be. And he had lots of leeches on him. I took off all the ones I could find and hoped the little booger would live a more selfish life after it stopped donating all his blood...or maybe I threw off the whole ecosystem of the puddle. |
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What we came across at the top of the oasis. This was another village on the other side of the mountain spine, and it was beautifully terraced. |